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Running in a Reconditioned Engine 7 years 3 months ago #15092

  • Yaegunp
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Hi all, the rings and pistons have NOT been replaced, the head has been shaved, valve seats have been done, replaced the camshaft(s), and the cylinders have been honed.

My question is do I need to run the engine in?

Cheers
Paul
1983 Z1300 A5 plus Sidecar.

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Running in a Reconditioned Engine 7 years 3 months ago #15093

  • RickG
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You will need to bed the rings in. Slow even running is not advised. Vary the revs but not over 1/2 of the max revs and vary the engine load. At low revs like 2000rpm firm acceleration in top gear up to the halfway mark and then back off. Take care not to let it overheat.
Live your life so that the Westbro Baptist Church will want to picket your funeral
Z1300 A1 x 2
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Running in a Reconditioned Engine 7 years 3 months ago #15100

  • Tyler
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Rick is dead on. It seems like a trivial thing, but running in the rings properly prevents oil consumption. If rings do not properly bed in the engine will consume oil ( usually not much) for its entire life.

Pull form 2k rpm in top gear to about 5k or so then engine brake back to 2k. Use a good bit of throttle when you do, the idea is put a decent load on the engine. Repeat a dozen times or so. Avoid a constant rpm when driving normally for the first few hundred miles.

Change oil after a couple hundred miles.
1981 KZ1300
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Running in a Reconditioned Engine 7 years 3 months ago #15101

  • tackelhappy
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In this case , is there going to be a lot of tight engine induced heat because the rebuild was only a hone with original pistons and rings.
Draining and replacing the coolant is going to require purging the air from the cylinder block and that requires letting the engine get REALLY hot. Like 120 degrees C or better- on the dash board temp. gauge going up to the H line - page 24 of the manual.
If riding the bike with the air lock- it maybe difficult to control the temperature.
In other words- in view of the fact that this case wasn't a rebore, new pistons and rings and the associated heat from being tight, is the running in proceedure really critical ?

I rebuilt my engine a few years ago with rebore , pistons and rings. The engine heat got hot very quickly .For the first few hundred miles I rode in rural areas and as Tyler mentioned , varied the engine speed and load -no city riding as the temperature will run high very quickly. So got the engine tightness dealt with first.
A couple of weeks later, I heat cycled the engine twice to about 120C and that got the engine temp. under control.
" If you can't say what you think, very soon you won't be able to think !
OKANAGAN FALLS. BC ,Canada
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Last edit: by tackelhappy. Reason: addition
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