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Must be my lucky day apart from the struggle with the cover, the impeller pulled off with grips easy and the two screws just came out with a tap with a hammer and ordinary screwdriver, the plate came off as soon as I tightened two allen bolts in. The seal is pretty gungy but could have had more mess I suppose..ready to order the parts, all inexpensive too for a change

in the bottom of the recess under all the sludge will be a small 4mm hole, have a good squirt around with some WD and clean the area with a rag and you will find it, try and get this done before removing the oil seal, poke the end of the spray tube from the WD down the hole,
i had to use some thin wire down the hole on mine and gently poke it and blow it clear, took me hours.
if you follow a straight line down from there to the bottom of the barrels you will find the exit for the drain tube.
well done so far..
Ian

Drain tube is now clear after half an hour of squirting and prodding. Last bit of advice before I carry on ,the mechanical seal looks in good shape,as new, the oil seal looks ok and there was only a small amount of oil/coolant sludge in the chamber. There was some oil in the thermostat outlet up above, and also oil in the bottom of the rad when I drained it, I'm wondering if it could all be due to head gasket failure, coolant has also got in the engine oil. Should I replace the oilseal (£5)..the mechanical seal (£45)..or put it back together for now as with the drain now being clear it will come out and I will know if there is a problem..it will be a lot easier to do next time if there is a problem.Cheers.

You're in there now. I would replace the lip seal for the paltry sum of 5 pounds and leave the mechanical seal until it shows signs of failing. The only reason mechanical seals fail is due to particles getting between the faces on the seal.

Yep, that was my thought, will get it ordered.
Edit that, just reopened my can of worms, I'd been working with the bike on the sidestand , I've stood it up straight and a load of coolant has poured out which has been sat in the side of the block, there were a few traces of oil in it so I've ordered the mechanical seal as well, may as well try and do it right first time

When you source a new mechanical seal get a genuine Kawasaki one, pattern ones are available & they are slightly cheaper, but are known to be not as robust as the originals.