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All I need to know about replacing waterpump seal 8 years 4 months ago #10017

  • Lucien-Harpress
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Stupid question- you DID take off the little circlip holding the impeller on, right?

(Don't laugh, we've all done it.)

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All I need to know about replacing waterpump seal 8 years 4 months ago #10018

  • McZed
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Hi pete.
I just noticed your avatar, aren't you a bit small for a big bike like the 1300. :cheer: :cheer:

Only joking, honest ;)
Z1300 UK

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All I need to know about replacing waterpump seal 8 years 4 months ago #10019

  • Petez13
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Hi,
Yes I did remove the circlip, but trust me
the bloody impeller dosnt need one,,,

Hi Mczed I take it your referring to the monkey in my profile pic, Gibraltar has loads of them, after I took the photo this bugga broke my front indicator off,,

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All I need to know about replacing waterpump seal 8 years 4 months ago #10020

  • scotch
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It's important to ensure there are no sharp edges or burrs on the cir-clip groove. The slightest scratch in the impeller bore due to this will create a leak of coolant using that scratch(s) as a path. If a previous owner has experienced this and used a sealant on the shaft, this will cause difficulty in removing the impeller. With this in mind I agree with the suggestion of using some gentle heat on the impeller. Small scratches in the impeller-bore can be honed-out but caution must be used so the impeller-bore isn't over-sized, in doing so.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !

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All I need to know about replacing waterpump seal 8 years 4 months ago #10021

  • Kawboy
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Lucien-Harpress wrote: Far as I can tell, the oil seal on the water pump shaft is identical (apart from size) to the seal used on the shifter shaft- a rubber seal mounted on a plastic (and possibly metal) base. You can try picking at it from the edges, but I've had good success drilling a small hole, running in a wood screw to grab it, and pulling it straight out. Just don't run the drill too deep (do this by hand) otherwise you'll put a hole in the case. The sealing surface is the shaft itself, so if you don't damage that, you'll be fine.

The impeller seal comes in two pieces, one you have to replace in the engine, the other on the rear of the impeller. The only issue to it sealing would be if you warp the impeller with too much heat, which would be pretty hard to do. Heat isn't necessarily for making the impeller physically larger to be able to pull it off- it's more for breaking whatever seal is currently between the impeller and the shaft. A little bit will go a long way.

As far as the Yamabond goes, it's a pretty common sealer, and nearly any motorcycle shop should have some. Hondabond or Threebond is the exact same stuff. Not sure of the technical term for it, other than it's a liquid gasket type material.


With all due respect Lucien, When I stated that the heat would make the impeller grow, I put it in simple terms. The principals behind Heat and Thermal dynamics that I was referring to is the coefficient of linear expansion which in very simple terms explains why when you raise the temp of different metals their growth rate is dependent upon the coefficient of each of the materials. The aluminum part will grow more than the steel part so at an elevated temperature the aluminum part will be bigger than the steel part. So in this particular case, warming up the impeller will in fact assist in releasing the impeller from the shaft.

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All I need to know about replacing waterpump seal 8 years 4 months ago #10025

  • Tyler
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The problem I had when removing the impeller was that the o-ring one the impeller shaft would undo any progress I made pulling it off. I could get the impeller to move slightly but when I let off or tried to reposition my grip the elastic oring would pull it back. I had to resort to making a puller to get it off. Even then I had to put constant pleasure on the impeller and tap on the shaft until it worked loose.

The impeller is a delicate part, if you want to re-use it you must be careful.

www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/engines/767-water-pump-puller
1981 KZ1300

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