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The timing shaft is direct drive from the crank through a steel chain. The drive from the timing shaft to the water pump shaft is transferred through a plastic bevel gear.

Oh that ain't going to happen. The water pump drive shaft is driven off of the secondary shaft by a tiny little timing chain. Honestly I'm surprised it's such as small sized chain.

Yeah, I may be mixing my terminology up. I see "secondary shaft" as the shaft DIRECTLY behind the crankshaft, connected by a wide chain belt. The "timing shaft" is the small, left/right shaft run off the secondary shaft by the aforementioned steel chain. The "water pump shaft" is the forward/back shaft connected to the impeller and driven off the timing shaft by the plastic bevel.

You'd probably have to beef it up if you ran anything else off of it anyway. I don't plan on doing this conversion myself, I'm just spitballing ideas.

Lucien-Harpress wrote: ...I'm just spitballing ideas.

Good to know so I can dodge them as they fly! LOL

I love this stuff! As Tommy Ivo once said about his drag racing career, it was like one long session of R&D, going from single engined cars to twins, quads, funnies, and then jet cars!

I wish I had a running copy of the KZ1300, a ZN1300 and a ZG1300, no matter how ugly, to use as test beds for all these questions and experiments we talk about! Even dead engines are good to use like doctors use cadavers.

BTW, I collect old, dead parts to do cut-aways to show how they are made and give insight into how they work as well as maybe how to repair or refurbish them. Examples are the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel return line check valve on the ZN1300. If anybody has such parts that they would otherwise throw away, I would pay shipping if you would send them to me. I can post pics of the disected parts for all to see.

Anybody have a blown motor they would like to donate for cadaver use for pictures and learning anatomy? Even the cause of the failure could be used as a learning point.

The extra stator works good. Plenty of extra electrical power. I was looking at the ZN1300 electrical schematic and it looks like both regulators just tap into a central wire and just dump power on there. I have 2 Electrosport regulators handling that.Voltage is stable at 14 volts. I guess you need two regulators that are of the same model for it to work efficiently or like some one else mentioned you may have a conflict if you have dis similar ones?Also I just want to thank Jerry from West GA Machine & Fab for making the bolt to make this upgrade happen.Any one interested give him a call or email.