TOPIC:

I have every thing to do the upgrade to a additional stator to my A1.The only part I'm missing is a bolt to hold it all together.Can some tell me the the thread diameter for his bolt 92001-1212? for the starter motor starter clutch. Has any one else done this upgrade on here?And where did they get there rotor bolt?And if I can't get a heat treated reverse thread bolt will a grade 8 or stainless steel one work?

I did this but had problems.

The bolt is M10x1.25mm left hand thread.

The engines that ran the extra stator had the thread in that end of the crank with a larger M12 bolt.

I ordered a spare bolt from an engine with the M12 thread and got a friend to turn this down and tap it with the M10x1.25 LH thread.

I just couldn't get it tight enough on the crank and it would slip when starting. I think I might have been afraid to apply the recommended torque to the bolt my friend had machined up in case it broke off in the crank.

I might try the upgrade again once my bike is back in a usable condition.

The bolt dimensions are:
M10x1.25mm Left-Hand thread
40mm bolt length
29.5mm flange/built in washer

Finding a M10x1.25, Lh bolt is proving to be a pain. So the 1.25 pitch is long enough?Thought about it and it will definitely need to be heat treated due to the high torque values.Might have to get a custom one made.So will be calling ARP this week and inquire about getting some made.Anyone else interested in possibly doing a group buy?

Called ARP in regards to getting a M10 1.25 LH made. They were very nice and explained the process to make a custom one. They gave me a estimate of $700 for one!!! The price goes down the more you order of course. So that's out of the question for me. I know some mower blade bolts are M10 1.25 LH.I found one for a Honda mower(I think)and the dimensions were on the money.Just not sure on the grade of the bolt.Alex the guy I spoke with at ARP suggested that I tap out the crank shaft so that it would accept a more common thread pattern rather than the LH one.What do you guys think about that suggestion?Kind of leery about that because there are no do overs if you screw up,YIKES.I hate those OH S__t moments if you know what I mean

Can't speak for the details, but if you do re-tap the crank, I'd keep the left hand threads. They may have done it that way so that, as the crank rotates, it spins against the rotor, keeping it tight. With right hand threads, it would rotate away from it, basically unscrewing the rotor from the crank.

Bicycle pedals are the same way. It's so they don't unscrew as you ride.

I have one on my Kz.
Take a look here for the factory install directions.

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