TOPIC:

I'm having an issue when I load the charging system so I am looking for the maximum charge current?. Has anybody done any modifications to increase output current? I am assuming with the small gage wire that the maximum charge current is low (10 to 20 amps).

When I have just the lights on, the system is charging okay - approximately 15V. I have tested the generator and I do get about 50VAC at 4000 rpm. I did have to replace the connector between the generator and regulator do to corrosion and that help a lot. I have checked the diodes and all test okay. The system does seem to regulate at 14.5 to 15 volts when riding around.

When I have the lights on, radio, cooling fan, and fog lights on, the system won't keep up charging properly. I have not measured the current draw yet but plan to soon.

I'm no expert, but depending on what year you have, I don't think the charging system is that robust. Later models (82? 83?) actually added another stator to the left side of the crank to fix this issue. If you have a 79/80, you're probably not going to be able to run everything at once.

Against , I have 't taken a meter to anything, but dealing with bikes of the same era, it makes sense.

I don't think you can run all those lights with the one stator.
Your fog lights were probably from the aftermarket.
The headlight and fan is probably all the system can manage.
One solution is to go for LED in the headlight -they draw about half the wattage-around 22.
You could also do LED in the fog lights - a bike needs as much visiblity as it can get, even if the fog lights don't do much actual lighting at night. But LED are not cheap.
Check out GTR Lighting see if they have anything.

From my experience with the A1 you are severely stretching the friendship at 15 amps and at 20 it isn't going to be able to keep it up and the stator will overheat and slowly cook.

The 79 had a 145 watt stator and as another member pointed out Kawasaki boosted it to 245 I believe in the 80 B2 touring model. I myself love farkles! I have a KLR650 and it's farkle magnet. You have a few options you can go on ebay find a 1980 stator,rotor and side cover which I did and will give you 245 watts.Or go to Electrosport and pick up a state of the art one and rectifier. The used stator I bought on Fleabay crapped out not such a bargain but to be expected from a used 35 year old part.I ended up buying a stator and rectifier from Electro sport and it's good for 250 watts. Leds are just band aids.Spend the cash fix the issue it will pay dividends in the long run. Then you can run your lights, heated gear etc. Also get a voltmeter as well to keep a eye on your battery.Also install a a marine grade switch to manually turn on and off your headlight and remove the reserve lighting unit. Just keep in mind I did this mod by interrupting ground and I got some weird results. The light turns on and off as expected but when the light is off and you try to shut the bike with the ignition key the engine won't stop running unless you use the kill switch?When the headlight is on that doesn't happen? They must share a common ground? and the leds are kool I replaced my taillight with a super bright 1157 led for $20 bucks. But I did that for safety rather than style.Also your mechanical flasher relays won't work with leds. If you want to go with LED turn signals you need to upgrade to electronic flasher relays and possibly a resistors on the turn signal circuit.I'll shut up now

I went through 6 stators over about a 10 year period and when the last one died I decided that I had enough of it and got an auto electrician to rewind it and when he gave it to me he said if it cooks I will refund you and make you another, that was 25 years ago and it's still there.
Unfortunately his business hasn't been around for about 10 years and I can't even remember his name.