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Wiring question: Igniter power, start circuit, &c. 7 years 8 months ago #13686

  • brandonsmash
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Here's a quick question that I'm sure I could suss out if my brain weren't melted from this heat (113F today).

I'm in the last stages of wiring the important bits, but I'm having a little trouble with the igniter circuit.

Namely, where does the igniter draw power?

From the igniter I have three wires for the coils (G, Bl, Bk). I have two Bk/Y wires for ground, and I have a Y/R wire that meets where the resistor used to be (serving as the "cold" side of the coils). Well, since the spark plugs are grounded to the cylinder head that takes care of the negative. (I'm ignoring for now the pickup coil wires.)

The Y/R wire runs to the starter switch. From the starter switch I have three wires: Y/R, Br, and Bk.
Br goes to the ignition switch and all sorts of accessories (horn, lights, etc.). It looks to be a hot wire.
Bk goes to the starter relay through the lockout switch. At the starter relay, Bk is hot, and Y/R is ground.

So therefore I surmise that current travels to the ignition switch via the W wire (from the main switch, which is now gone), which takes power from WBk, which is on the output side of the 30A fuse fed by the WR wire from battery +.

Okay.

So then the wires coming from the igniter are Bk/Y, which grounds, and another Bk/Y, which grounds the turn signal control unit.

That leaves Y/R, which. . . also seems to ground.

So, most pressingly, where does the igniter draw power?
I'd like to use a toggle to switch the igniter on and off (acting as a kill switch in lieu of an ignition switch) but I can't figure out how the bugger's fed!

Does the starter switch really just ground at the igniter?

Br appears to be fed from the regulator/rectifier; how does that provide current when the engine isn't running?


Basically, my panel looks like so:

-Toggle switch for fan (manual control)
-Toggle switch for lights (not currently wired, as I have no lights on the bike)
-Toggle switch for mains (this should toggle ignition power)
-(Momentary) toggle for starter (wired through a 7.5A fuse to hot on the solenoid, the solenoid will ground at frame)

I'm just struggling to figure out how to wire that main toggle!
Cut to approximate, smash to fit!

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Last edit: by brandonsmash.

Wiring question: Igniter power, start circuit, &c. 7 years 8 months ago #13699

  • brandonsmash
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So the best I can suss this out is that the coils actually take power from the negative side. Weird, but I don't see how else it can be. When the ignition powers Br from W, Br feeds the starter switch. When the engine cutoff is disabled (engine run) power flows from Br to YR; when the momentary starter switch is depressed, power also flows from Br to Bk (starter solenoid).

Okay, so YR powers the igniter and branches to Y, which runs to P, which is on the - side of the coils. But it has to be positive power. Just has to be.

And then Br provides power elsewhere to the system and goes back to the regulator/rectifier, presumably to bleed off any excess voltage.

So my solution is to run a +12V wire from the fuse panel (30A) to the main toggle, and then branch that off to Y (-) from the coils and YR to the igniter, assuming that it uses a ground interrupt transistor on the + side on Bk/Bl/G.

Thoughts?
Cut to approximate, smash to fit!

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Wiring question: Igniter power, start circuit, &c. 7 years 8 months ago #13707

  • strate6
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I am certain YELLOW/RED is the live feed to the IC Igniter (for KZ1300A1/A2).

It MUST be as Black/Yellow is always ground.
Black / Green / Blue are to the coils (one each).

The other 6 wires go to your pick-ups (2 wires each Green/Green and Red/Yellow and Black/Blue)

Test it with a bulb or meter?

It wont provide current when the engine isnt running as it doesnt need to !

Be careful as the unit is easily damaged if not wired correctly.

Pete F
UK
Why Have Four When You Can Have Six ?
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Last edit: by strate6.
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