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Well I got my bike running with a new fuel pump but hadn't ridden it as I still had more things I wanted to do. So ran new fuel lines, a new fuel filter, new fluids, ect. I went to take my first ride and some of the fuses and wiring were bugging me so I decided to tuck them behind the frame. Before I went to do this I said to myself should I remove the battery (I'm sure you can see where this is going now). So anyways I did not remove it and only disconnected the ground which must have grounded. The white/red power wire to the starter relay ended up contacting a metal bolt sticking out I couldn't see which led to big sparks. I cleaned up the wire, took out all the relays, replaced the blown inline fuse, and now the pump stays on and I'm getting constant voltage at the relay so I'm pretty sure its the computer. I haven't looked into it much but I did search for the computer with no luck. I decided to separate the cover on the computer which was a huge pain only to find nearly the entire inside is filled with silicone. So that got me no where and I'm going to do some digging tomorrow if I can but just wanted to put this up here to see if anyone had some input minus you should have taken the battery out. Pretty mad at myself right now as I've sunk this money and time into it and with my acting like an excited child killed it before I even rode it.

Usually big sparks and sensitive electronics don't mix well. I know how you feel I would be kicking the crap outa anything kickable and making up new words. Don't let it get to you just accept it and find a fix. Having it embeded in epoxy is a real PITA and not at all needed except to make you buy new instead of fixing them

I shouldnt say big spark really i heard it but barely saw anything. I wish they would have put a fuse on both wirea instead of one. Well its cranks and cranks no start and the pump doesn't stop while the key is on. When you first try to start it it gives a quick sound from the exhaust like it will start but doesn't. I see nothing obviously blown in the computer but at the same time I don't know much about it and there is still tons of silicone in there. . . anyone have another computer for sale lol.

I haven't had anything to do with these ecu's but is that an l.e.d down on the bottom right hand side in the pic if so it might be similar to early automotive ecu's where you count the flashes and then refer to a manual wich translates the error codes.
Otherwise some electronic devices have protection diodes wich might be worth checking.

There are several diodes but getting the silicone off is a pain. I didn't get to dig into the manuals yet to see if anything is mentioned. I did get a chance to look more into the situation though and heres what I found. When I went to put some of the wiring under the battery tray to follow along with the grounds and brake cable going that way I hit a bolt which I did not notice or feel. It was through the inner hole barely protruding out the back.



I have no idea what it does as its not holding anything on and it standard not metric. Next I checked out a previously burnt looking plug and decided to dig under the OEM looking electrical tape. I found huge amounts of blue green and black tape under the putter black tape and found this.




I had been wondering to myself how the heck did the surge get to the ecu. Now I have my answer. Only the DFI fuse was blown the 1a meter fuse was fine. I may have a different problem than I originally thought though I don't know. I hate electronics sometimes

As for the green led it just does one quick flash when you first turn it to on then that's it. Here's the burned plugs.