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Lucien-Harpress wrote: Gotta agree with doing all you can to avoid hydrolock.

Results aren't pretty.

That's just painful to look at, Lucien!

Not as painful as my list of receipts.....

Hi Paul,

Please read this thread:
www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/carburato...a-common-z13-gremlin

It's not that the floats are something that you could ever repair. They're made of plastic foam. I believe that alcohol in some fuels penetrates the foam and makes the floats progressively heavier.

Check out some of Scotch's threads on "Brass Floats".

Regards

Bill

Just to clarify: You can not shake an OEM float to determine if it has leaked. It is a solid piece which only absorbs fuel. Riding the bike may not necessarily free-up a "stuck" float.

Carefully remove the needle-valve body and determine if a piece of debris is stuck in the body orifice - preventing the needle valve from shutting off the fuel flow. Use a magnifying glass.

"The smallest piece of anything will cause flooding". A Quality fuel filter is essential !

Check the "o-ring" on the float needle-valve body. If the body pulls out easily with little or no resistance - the "o-ring" needs replacing. Check the needle retaining spring-clip. After market needle-valves are known to have their spring-clip interfere with the float. Check the tiny steel pin in the needle-valve (it makes contact with the float-tab). It is spring-loaded and must return to full extension when released and must be "free" to do so, with no indication it's movement is impeded or rough.

If these details check-out satisfactorily then re-evaluate the "wet-level" ON THE BENCH and adjust accordingly. A continued flooding issue usually indicates the potential need to replace the floats.