TOPIC:

I replaced my V/R with the Shindengen FH020AA about 1 year ago. I replaced the Stator at this time as well. Super pleased ! Yes the two plugs are LARGE ! One for the 3 stator-leads - the other for the + & - to the battery. I also had to do some creative thinking when trying to mount, because of the overall size.

BUT - The plugs are "weather proof" with seals to prevent moisture and dirt infiltration. Like that ! The terminals are also large to ensure adequate (significant) connector contact. Like that ! Why 2 plugs ? My guess is to keep the inputs and outputs separate "if" there's a "problem" but more likely due to the inherent size that would be needed to incorporate all 5 terminals into a single unit. One of the things that surprised me was the gauge of the + & - leads supplied, to connect to the battery. 12g ? The other thing I liked was that these leads are intended to go directly to the battery. This may be your issue if as you stated - Currently it is hooked into the stock harness, I checked all the wiring and the resistance to the + & - is 0.03 ohm's which sounds good enough.
I think you'll find that if you connect the + & - as recommended - you'll eliminate your concerns !

Footnote: Because the Stator (#5? for this bike) and the FH020AA is my 3rd (?) V/R I was appreciably "concerned" about how long these would last so I installed a battery meter so I could watch for anything weird that may be happening with the charging system. The FH020AA eliminates the need for the RED/WHITE and BROWN leads so I used the RED/WHITE as the power source (Battery voltage) for the meter and used the BROWN lead as a "Harness Voltage". This allowed me to use a 3 position switch for the meter readings: OFF - IGNITION - BATTERY.
Battery at rest -Headlight OFF:

Ignition (harness) at rest:

Battery at 1000RPM - Headlight ON - Low beam:

Ignition (harness) at 1000RPM - Headlight ON - low-beam:

I'm not concerned about the voltage drop through the harness. You have to appreciate that EVERYTHING powered is being fed by the harness. All lights and lighting, ign-coils, voltage regulator for the Temp. and Fuel gauges plus the gauges, and all the other stuff ! The critical aspect for myself is that I have a decent voltage going to the battery - which I do.
Keep an eye on the battery electrolyte level !!! With the output of this V/R I've had to add distilled water twice since installing. (A syringe works great for this !)
Hope this helps and please let us know.

Man oh man what a goose chase I have been on....

First things first I got knowledge on voltage drop, awesome!

So I started looking for the source of my voltage drop, 0.23 volts lost at the main switch, 0.13 from a bad fuse, 0.13 from the earth.

Cleaning all these and adding a new earth, reduced my drop to 0.2V much better. Still chasing pennies IMO.

I put it all back together, and re-wrapped the harness etc. Had to wait till tomorrow to test bcause it was night time by the time i was done.

Fired it up this morning, still the same 12.6v when idling no headlight. 12.90V resting ignition off. WTF!

I was trying to keep the original connectors because it would be cleaner wiring, but screw it. As scotch suggested and the instructions with the rectifier suggest. I went strait to the + & - of the battery. Surely this time. Fingers crossed.

Fire it up and still 12.60v idling 12.90v resting. goes down to 12.3v it headlights etc on. At this point things just suck.

Decided to investigate the amperage output;
The bat at idle is is draining 5amps and only goes into the - which would be charging? when above 2k rpm.
About 9 amp with high beam and the rest of the lights on.
During all this testing the alternator wires where relatively cool, not really even warm.

I keep chasing things for another hour and testing to no avail.

Light Bulb moment. I have a working bike, lets hook this rectifier up to its system to make sure it works correctly. Bam 13+volts when idling with headlight on going up to 14 when raising rpm's. Awesome!

Decided to investigate the amperage output on the carb bike;
The bat at idle is is being charged for 5 amps with no lights on, get charged about 2 amps with lights etc on.
During all this testing the alternator wires got warm to the touch, same with the regulator.
I actually think this regulator is on its way out? because when revving it will go to 14.8 volts.

Alright what about if we hook the other bikes alternator up to the new rectifier, which has its output directly to the battery of the DFI Bike.

13v at idle no headlight. well I'll be dammed. not perfect, but its something.

Currently I am thinking I have an issue with the alternator on the DFI Bike. After checking the AC Voltages and at idle 1 pin is giving 15v AC other are putting out 10-11.5 ish.

What are your thoughts on this fellas?

Or any other test I could do to confirm things further.

Cheers.

I had to go back to your first post where you wrote
"So I checked Alternator Voltage at idle I am getting about 15V AC on all 3 terminals at 4000rpm about 50v on all terminals, which is what it should be from reading the manual. I then checked the R/R and was gonna swap it with my other KZ but the R/R connectors and model No are different"
Did something go wrong during that test or did something go wrong after the test? 10.5V on 2 leads sounds like a short probably between them. Check the resistaance between those 2 leads and between all 3 leads (lead 1and 2, 1 and 3, 2 and 3) I'm guessing the resistance between the 2 low voltage leads will be lower indicating a short in the winding between those 2 leads.

I'm not concerned about the voltage drop through the harness. You have to appreciate that EVERYTHING powered is being fed by the harness. All lights and lighting, ign-coils, voltage regulator for the Temp. and Fuel gauges plus the gauges, and all the other stuff !

Realized after: The headlight controller, the turn-signal cancel controller and DFI controller will also draw "some" power.

On another topic: Someone some time ago was questioning why Kawasaki would run the headlight circuit power through the HI/LO switch, without the use of a relay. My theory is that there IS a relay in the circuit. It's probably electronic and built into the Headlight controller.

scotch wrote: On another topic: Someone some time ago was questioning why Kawasaki would run the headlight circuit power through the HI/LO switch, without the use of a relay. ..

I don't think it's that weird: 80's Hondas have power going through: the ignition switch, the High/Low switch, and the starter button before reaching the headlight. Some folks install a relay to get more voltage to the headlight. Personally, I think just cleaning switch contacts now and then is preferable to the additional complexity of installing a relay.

mmmmm.. Crunchy. Anyone for Baked Stator?




So after Checking the stator resistance again, I had shorts to Ground on all 3 of the wires, resistance between two pairs was 6 ohms and the other was 0.12.

Once I saw this I was convinced after checking the wires to the Stator, that it was fried. The JIS screws Holding down the wires in the cover are chewed out, so I ended up cutting it out.

Anyone know where I can find a stator for a ZG1300 A1 1984? ... part no 21003-1071 28amp output reading from the manual.

Could only find this ad which actually says the part no it replaces... www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/kawasa...-3-phase-suzuki.html

On another note, I think I need a stator for the 1981 KZ1300 as well... the resistance between the 3 pins is 0.12 ohms and the resistance to the frame is 0.38K ohms

2 Stators for the price of investigating one.