TOPIC:

A bit of help, is worth a lot of pity - so the saying goes.  I would try to help at every opportunity if I could, but I have virtually no hands-on experience of this Kawasaki.  I bought my KZ about seven years ago - a non-runner needing restoration. Due to circumstances, It has been in storage 25 miles away for at least 6 1/2 years, during which time I have not seen it, let alone done any work to it.   I have the factory manual to hand, but of course that does not describe the repair of switch gear. So it comes down to experience - of which, as I say, I have little regarding this bike.  I'm sure there will be other users of this forum who could have answered this question from KawaBCN, but perhaps they only come here when they themselves need advice. 

First of all, thanks for the advice and help from Kawboy and Biltonjim.

This Saturday afternoon I removed the lock.

There was only one spring of the three that push the copper plate.


The two small balls that fix the position were inside.

The orange and green wire lost its solder.
This lock has already been disassembled before and there are pieces missing, I think I will clean, lubricate the inside and reassemble it as it was.

If the seat closure works again I will be satisfied.

You really need to replace all 3 springs and 3 balls, clean up the contacts and the plate, then reassemble. It will never work properly unless the contacts are held in place, tight together. All of the charging and battery current flows through that switch. It might work and then one bounce on the road, and the switch will open and you will be looking for a tow truck to get home.

The other issue is that the tabs that hold the switch together will only take opening and closing a few times before they break off, then you will be looking for another switch. Do it once and do it right.

You are dealing with a switch that has been worked on by someone who didn't know what he was doing and then bypassed a bunch of wires  so you need to understand what happened and how to fix.

From the wiring diagram-
The white wire with a red stripe feeds power from the battery / regulator rectifier to the fuse box and feeds the 30 amp fuse and the 10 amp fuse.

The 30 amp fuse feeds the white wire with black stripe power to the Main Switch.

The orange wire with green stripe is soldered to the same contact as the white wire with a black stripe and that orange wire with a green stripe feeds power to the hazard signal.

As indicated in the wiring diagram (pic) when the switch is in the "on" position the white wire with a black stripe is connected to the white wire which feeds power to the ignition switch.

When the Main Switch is selected to "Park" the white wire with black stripe is only connected to the red wire to supply power to the tail light for parking the bike at night.

If the orange wire with a green stripe became unsoldered, it probably happened because the switch got too hot when in the "On" position, not because of an issue with the hazard circuit.

Neville did this repair in 2016. For some reason, I can’t paste a link.

biltonjim wrote:

Neville did this repair in 2016. For some reason, I can’t paste a link.

Here's the link   Neville Main switch and Ignition Switch Rebuild

I'll give you credit for at least doing a search on the topic Jim. Not many do and that's why some of the topics keep coming up over and over and over .........